Everything You Need To Get Started With Backyard Chickens

By Emily Farris

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If the price of eggs has you considering backyard chickens, you may be wondering if raising your own flock is a more cost-effective option than the grocery store or farmers market. The answer? It depends.

My family has maintained a small flock of hens in our own yard for about a decade, and in the warmer months we average an egg a day from each bird. At times we’ve definitely spent more on the chickens than we would have on eggs, and no matter the size of your flock, you’ll incur some one-time costs to get started. But if your household goes through a few cartons a week and you can DIY your coop, backyard chickens will probably save you money in the long run. (On the other hand, if you’ve been eyeing that $8,000 chicken coop from Williams-Sonoma, you may have a hard time recouping your investment. Like, ever.)

Whether you want chickens to counteract egg inflation or not, they’re actually pretty fun pets. And though they require daily care, they’re fairly low-maintenance too. Chickens need to be let out of their coop and given fresh food and water every morning, and the door should be closed at night. The coop also needs to be cleaned regularly, and you can expect to do little extra work when the temperature drops below freezing (and perhaps add supplemental lighting to keep up egg production, or a poultry water heater if you don't want to bother with deicing).

As with any hobby it's possible to spend a lot of time and money on chicken keeping if you get really into it, but it doesn't have to take over your entire life either.

To help you decide if backyard chickens are right for you, here's a basic list of what you need to get started. It's far from a complete guide to keeping chickens, but it will give you an idea of what you’ll have to spend to get started with your very own egg-laying flock.

If you’re planning to start with baby chicks, keep in mind that they’re actual babies (albeit bird babies) and they can't go straight into a chicken coop like big girls can. Until they’re about six weeks old, chicks need to be indoors in a brooder, which is just an enclosed space with a constant heat source. At my house that's always been an oversize plastic tub with a heat lamp. Some people use galvanized stock tanks and others use kiddie pools. Whatever you pick, make sure it has high sides since chicks do start to hop and flap around weeks before they’re ready to move outside.

Like humans and dogs, chickens need different foods for different growth stages, and baby chicks need starter feed. Leave it out all day in a small, semi-enclosed feeder they can easily reach, and do the same with a small poultry waterer. Because hatchlings eat and drink such small quantities in the beginning, you may be tempted to just put little dishes in the brooder, but if you do, you’ll be cleaning up messes nonstop. Instead, opt for some affordable little dispensers made specifically for messy little chicks.

In most climates spring-hatched chicks can move into the outdoor coop when they’re about six weeks old. And no matter how budget-friendly you’re trying to be, a coop is nonnegotiable because while chickens like to roam and peck around outside during the day, they need a safe, dry place to lay their eggs and sleep at night. Chicken coops can range from ramshackle DIY setups (some people fashion coops out of large plastic tubs) to fancy insulated converted sheds and outbuildings that are nicer than my first Brooklyn apartment.

No matter how scrappy or fancy you go, the coop doesn't need heating or electricity, but it must be able to keep wind, rain, and predators out at night while still having some sort of constant ventilation. It also needs to be spacious enough for your flock to avoid factory-farm living conditions (depending who you ask, you’ll want two to four square feet of coop space per bird).

The inside of your coop should have at least one nesting box per four chickens, and about 10 inches of roost (horizontal pole) space per bird for sleeping. And if you don't want your chickens free-ranging around your yard all day, you’ll also want some sort of enclosed chicken run attached to the coop. For the run, allow for eight to 10 square feet of space per chicken.

Unless you’re really handy, I recommend buying a prefabricated coop or kit that comes with the necessary fixtures, including a little drop door to keep your gals safe from hungry predators at night (sadly, I know all too well how merciless city raccoons can be). If you are handy, Etsy is packed with plans for building your own modern coop.

Provide a soft spot for the gals to lay their eggs by filling the nesting boxes with chicken-safe bedding like pine shavings or straw. And unless you’re waterproofing your coop and plan to hose it out every day, you can use the same bedding for the floor. It makes for softer landing when chickens jump down from their roost, keeps the coop smelling fresh and clean, and in the winter it can even help to provide a little extra warmth (with the right compost management). Pine shavings and straw are the most common coop floor coverings, but some people also use sand as a base or on its own.

Most chickens start laying eggs when they’re around 20 weeks old. Make sure they’re getting all the nutrients they need with layer feed, made especially for egg-laying hens. You can get it in crumble or pellet form, which is really a matter of preference for you and your gals (I prefer pellets because they’re less messy). Even if you plan to free-range your chickens full-time, it's a good idea to supplement with layer feed.

Speaking of supplements, there are some that can help keep your flock strong and healthy, including crushed oyster shells that provide calcium for strong eggshells. Cracked corn is a good addition in the winter since their bodies have to work harder to digest it, and no matter the weather chickens love little treats like dried mealworms.

This is also the time to upgrade to full-size feeders and waterers, though the size you need will depend on the size of your flock. Unless your chickens are free-ranging, plan on each one eating about a quarter pound of feed each day.

Last, but certainly not least, you need to get chickens themselves. And yes, you can order baby chicks online. Though it seems kind of absurd and a little scary, hatchlings are overnighted in a ventilated box with some sort of food and hydration, as well as heat packs if necessary. Receiving a shipment of chicks the first time is an amazing experience—and you definitely need to be home to intercept the package so you can get the babies into the brooder right away.

If you want to skip the brooder and get to the egg-laying part faster, you can order pullets, which are six-week-old hens. Just keep in mind they probably won't be as comfortable around humans as chicks you raise from hatchlings. They’re also often harder to get.

Before you order all the pretty chickens (believe me, I know how tempting it is!) make sure you’re getting the right breed for your climate. Some chickens are especially cold-hardy and can handle temperatures far below 0ºF while others aren't as well-suited to cold weather. In the Midwest I’m partial to Barred Plymouth Rocks, Orpingtons, and Wyandottes.